Flavors of Puerto Rico
Puerto Rican cuisine has been experiencing a boom of sorts, with innovative, gourmet restaurants opening around the island. Today, more chefs and restaurateurs are developing menus in the line of a Nuevo Latino cuisine. Joyfully departing from traditional continental and Puerto Rican recipes, these chefs nevertheless include traditional ingredients and update old favorites. Standard meats like chicken, fish, and lamb are given an added zest by sauces made from such tropical fruits as tamarind, mango, or guava. Take your palate out for a few adventures. Puerto Rican cuisine may surprise and delight you with both new and old tastes.
Cocina Criolla
The origins of contemporary Puerto Rican cuisine can be traced to the Taíno people, who inhabited the island in the 15th century. Taíno staples still used today include yucca, peppers, and corn. The Taíno also are believed to have grown guava, pineapple, and soursop.
Cocina criolla—literally, the creole kitchen—is an aggregate of Caribbean cuisines, sharing basic ingredients common to Cuban, Dominican, and to some extent even Brazilian culinary traditions. Still, it has its own distinct flavorings.
When the Spaniards arrived on the island, they brought olives, eggplant, onion, garlic, rice, and cilantro. Wheat would not grow on the island, so yucca remained a staple, as did rice. Regional culinary specialties from Spain, such as paellas, came out of the Spanish-influenced kitchen. These specialties played an important role in the development of Puerto Rican recipes, recognizable today in such dishes as arroz con pollo. Lacking olive oil, early Puerto Ricans often used lard as a fat. African slaves brought by the Spanish from Guinea and the Gold Coast of Africa during the 16th century to toil in the sugar fields also left their marks on the Puerto Rican table. The slaves brought plantains, bananas, pigeon peas, okra, and yams. The Taíno used corn husks to wrap foods, but the Africans replaced them with plantain leaves. The African population developed a variety of coconut-based dishes and preferred frying foods to stewing them.
Local Seafood
Puerto Rico is home to an abundance of freshwater and saltwater fish, both native and introduced, and the island is readily associated with big-game fishing. Off the coast of Culebra, fishermen catch bonefish, tuna, blue and white marlin and dolphin fish, otherwise known as mahi-mahi. The island's more than twenty man-made lakes are stocked regularly with freshwater fish, and local restaurants take advantage of these fresh catches, offering inventive daily specials. Lunch and dinner generally start with appetizers, such as bacalaitos, (crunchy cod fritters) or sopón de pescado, a classic fish soup made with garlic and spices plus onions and tomatoes. Fried fish is also popular, served with mojo isleño, a sauce made with olives and olive oil, onions, pimientos, capers, tomato sauce, and vinegar. The seafood shacks of Joyuda are so well known for fresh fish that people come here from as far away as Ponce and San Juan. In Boquerón people line up at pushcarts where vendors sell oysters on the half shell. (Hot sauce is optional.) If you're in Rincón, the Horned Dorset Primavera has one of the most elegant eateries in the Caribbean.
Indigenous Fruits and Vegetables
Tropical fruits often wind up at the table in the form of delicious juices. A local favorite is pineapple juice from crops grown in the north of the island. Coconut, mango, papaya, lime, and tamarind are other local favorites. Puerto Rico is home to lesser-known fruits that are worth trying if you find them; these include the caimito (which is also called a star apple and has a mild, grapelike flavor), quenepa (also called a Spanish lime, which has yellow sweet-tart pulp surrounded by a tight, thin skin), and zapote (a plum-size fruit that tastes like a combination of peach, avocado, and vanilla). The Plaza del Mercado in the Santurce sector of San Juan is a good place to look for the unusual.
Spices
Puerto Rican dishes often feature pepper, lime rind, cinnamon, cloves, fresh ginger, garlic, and the juice of the sour orange. Two popular herb seasonings are cilantro (coriander) and oregano. These ingredients, along with small sweet peppers, are commonly used to flavor soups and meats. The conventional wisdom says that the real secret of the cocina criolla depends on the use of sofrito (a sauce that may include tomatoes, onion, garlic, peppers, and coriander), achiote (the inedible fruit of a small Caribbean shrub whose seeds are sometimes ground as a spice), lard, and the caldero (cooking pot).
Plantains and Mofongo
Plátanos, or plantains, are related to bananas but are larger and starchier. They are served mostly as side dishes and may be eaten green (as tostones, which are salty) or ripe (as amarillos, which are sweet). They can be fried, baked, boiled, or roasted and served either whole or in slices. Sometimes whole amarillos are served with cinnamon as a dessert. Pasteles, boiled plantain leaves wrapped around fillings, tamale-style, are a Christmas specialty but can be eaten anytime.
Of all the delicious plantain preparations, one of the tastiest is also the simplest-mofongo. Green plantains are mashed with a wooden pilón, mixed with garlic and other flavorings and fried in a pan. Served plain, it's often a side dish. But when it's stuffed with chicken, beef, or some other meat, mofongo becomes one of Puerto Rico's signature entrées.
In the center of the island it's often made with pork. On the coast, however, mofongo is almost always stuffed with fresh fish or shellfish. Some restaurants are even known for what they put in their plantains. A neon sign outside Tino's, one of a long line of seafood restaurants in Joyuda, touts its signature dish: an earthenware goblet overflowing with plantains and seafood.
Rice
Rice is omnipresent on the Puerto Rican plate. It can be served "white" with kidney beans, or prepared with gandules (pigeon peas) or garbanzos (chickpeas); most often rice is simply served with habichuelas (red beans). Whatever the case, the accompaniment for rice is almost always some kind of bean, always richly seasoned. Rice stuck to the pot, known as pegao, is the most highly prized, full of all the ingredients that have sunk to the bottom.
Rum
As you enjoy your piña colada—a cocktail served in nearly every bar on the island—lift your glass to Christopher Columbus. Although the explorer didn't invent the fruity cocktail, he did bring sugarcane to the Caribbean on his second voyage in 1493. Sugarcane is native to Southeast Asia, but it was cultivated in Spain at the time, and Columbus thought it would do well in the tropical "New World." Juan Ponce de Léon, the island's first governor, planted vast fields of the stuff. The first sugar mill was opened in 1524, leading to the distillation of what was then called brebaje. Although rum was first exported in 1897, it took a bit longer for it to become the massive industry it is today. The Bacardí family, after fleeing Cuba, set up shop near San Juan in 1959. Their company's product, lighter-bodied than those produced by most other distilleries, gained favor around the world. Today Puerto Rico produces more than 35 million gallons of rum a year. You might say it's the national drink.
On the Menu
Adobo: a seasoning made of salt, onion powder, garlic powder, and ground black pepper.
Aji-li-mojili: a dressing combining garlic and sweet, seeded chili peppers, flavored with vinegar, lime juice, salt, and olive oil.
Alcapurrias: banana croquettes stuffed with beef or pork.
Amarillos: fried ripe, yellow plantain slices.
Arepas: fried corn or bread cakes.
Batido: a tropical fruit-and-milk shake.
Bacalaítos: deep-fried codfish fritters.
Chimichurri: an herb sauce of finely chopped cilantro or parsley with garlic, lemon, and oil.
Empanadillas: turnovers, bigger than pastelillos, filled with beef, crabmeat, conch, or lobster.
Mofongo: a mix of plantains mashed with garlic, olive oil, and salt in a pilón, the traditional Puerto Rican mortar and pestle.
Mojo or Mojito Isleño: a sauce made of olives and olive oil, onions, pimientos, capers, tomato sauce, vinegar, garlic, and bay leaves.
Pasteles: corn or yucca stuffed with various fillings and wrapped in a plantain leaf.
Pastelillos: deep-fried cheese and meat turnovers; a popular fast-food snack.
Picadillo: spicy ground meat, which is used for stuffing or eaten with rice.
Pique: a condiment consisting of hot peppers soaked in vinegar, sometimes with garlic or other spices added.
Tembleque: a coconut custard, usually sprinkled with cinnamon or nutmeg.
Puerto Rico with Kids
Puerto Rico is a family-friendly isle, with no end of fun things for kids to see and do, including cave exploration, snorkeling with marine turtles, and going on nighttime excursions to bioluminescent lagoons. And many resort hotels arrange children's activities, freeing parents for romantic beach strolls and candlelit dinners.
Choosing a Place to Stay
Resort hotels make a point of catering to family needs. Most offer free rooms to children under 12 and can provide cribs. Here are a few questions to ask to gauge the level of family friendliness.
Are there discounted meals and activities? Do the restaurants have kids' menus? Are there children's programs, and is there an age range? A children's pool?
El Conquistador Resort, near Fajardo, has a long list of facilities for children, including the sensational Coqui Water Park. On the south coast, the Copamarina Beach Resort & Spa has two children's pools plus kayaks, pedal boats, tennis, and heaps of other activities.
Condos and vacation rentals offer an inexpensive option, especially for larger families. They typically have multiple bedrooms and you can cook for yourselves. ESJ Towers Condo Hotel, in Condado, is right on the beach in San Juan.
Things to Do
Vacationing in the Caribbean is all about the outdoors. Kids may even forget video games when they see the options: snorkeling, whale watching, Boogie boarding, and cave exploring. And the list of great beaches is endless. The wave-action around Rincón can be too rough for youngsters, but Vieques and Culebra have the most fantastic, reef-protected sands good for snorkeling, and kids can go kayaking and fishing. Many beaches have rip tides; always play safe, and heed any posted warnings, such as red flags.
Parque Las Cavernas de Río Camuy. This huge cavern will leave kids wide-eyed. They'll have fun trying to discern imaginary figures in the surreal dripstone formations. Tiny coquí frogs hop around the cavern entrance, and children can spy for crabs and blind fish in the underground river. Bats flitting about overhead help keep kids enthralled. The tram ride to reach the caverns is icing on the cake.
Arecibo Lighthouse & Historical Park. Local families love this small theme park built around the Faro de Los Morrillos lighthouse. It has a museum on seafaring, including pirates. In winter, kids can spy for whales from the lighthouse observation platform. The playground has a pirate's cave and replica galleon as well as a Taíno village.
Dr. Juan A. Rivera Zoo. Kids love animals—reason enough to visit this splendid zoo in Mayagüez, on the west coast. The highlight is an African wildlife park with elephants, giraffes, lions, and rhinos. There are also tigers, big apes, and camel rides.
Museo del Niño. While exploring San Juan, head to this small two-level museum in a colonial mansion opposite the cathedral. It's a great learning experience for younger children, with exhibits spanning hurricanes to interactive human biology, plus interactive displays including those in the NASA Space Place.
State of the Arts in Puerto Rico
Puerto Rico's visual arts have long been shaped by the influences of its African, Spanish, and indigenous roots. Though the history of Puerto Rican art can be categorized into several predominant thematic preoccupations, a close examination of seminal Puerto Rican works reveals the persistence of these diverse cultural influences.
The indigenous Taíno were living on the island at the time of Columbus's arrival in the late 15th century; their art consisted primarily of petroglyphs and daily-use or ceremonial objects made of ceramic or wood. Little survived Spanish colonization, but we know about its existence thanks to written accounts of Spanish priests like Fray Ramón Pané, who described Taíno cemies—ceremonial figures—in extensive detail. The few remaining Taíno objects are largely preserved in private collections, although small collections of representative pieces and some examples of petroglyphs can be seen at the Parque Ceremonial Indigena de Tibes (Tibes Indigenous Ceremonial Center) in Ponce and the Parque Ceremonial Indigena de Caguana (Caguana Indigenous Ceremonial Center) in Utuado.
The arrival of the Spanish also resulted in the introduction of new art forms. According to art historian Osiris Delgado, much of the art from the early colonial period was religious in nature and function, the most representative example being the santos—saint figurines carved of wood, an art form that endures on the island to this day. It wasn't until the mid- to late-18th century that the "fine" arts began in earnest, with the works of Jose Campeche (1752-1809) being the most representative.
Campeche became known for his exceptional oil portraits of religious figures and the social elite; his renown was particularly noteworthy considering he was a self-taught artist with little formal education. Campeche's seminal works, including Dama a caballo (Lady on Horseback), can be seen at the Museo de Arte in Ponce (MAP) and at the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico in San Juan.
Campeche was followed by Francisco Oller (1833-1917), a painter who remains a central figure in the narrative of Puerto Rican art. Also working primarily in oils, Oller turned his brush toward a realistic treatment of Puerto Rican life as he observed it. His paintings can be grouped into one of two broad categories: landscapes (paisajes) and folkloric images of daily life. La ceiba de Ponce (The Ponce Ceiba Tree) and Hacienda Aurora (Aurora Hacienda) are cornerstones in the permanent collection at the MAP and help viewers understand why Oller has been called "a realist of impressionism." El Velorio (The Wake), his most powerful and enduring work, is on display in the museum at the main campus of the University of Puerto Rico.
Oller not only established the subjects and styles that would dominate Puerto Rican art throughout most of the 20th century, but he also played a significant role in creating a community of artists and an artistic culture on the island. He opened Puerto Rico's first gallery in Old San Juan around 1870, exhibiting work of local artists. His influence is visible in the works of many 20th-century artists who are shown alongside Campeche and Oller in the permanent collections at the MAP and the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico. An appreciation for rural landscapes and lifestyles, as well as its signature figure, the jibaro—a poor, humble, hard-working mountain man—became the stamp of Puerto Rican identity.
By the 1940s, the government started supporting the arts, and art institutions began to flourish, with the Museo de la Universidad de Puerto Rico opening in 1946.
During the 1950s artists turned their interests toward social justice and the urban proletariat, focusing on slums and poverty. The evolution of these motifs is evident in the work of Ramón Frade and Rafael Tufino, whose works are on display in San Juan's Galeria Nacional.
The Instituto de Cultura Puertorriquena (Institute of Puerto Rican Culture) was established in 1955 to promote Puerto Rican artists; today, the agency oversees many of the island's museums and art programs. In 1959, the MAP was founded by former governor, philanthropist, and passionate art collector, Luis A. Ferré. MAP houses a private collection of more than 2,400 works from the 14th through 19th centuries, including paintings by El Greco, Goya, Rubens, Cranach, Murillo, and Delacroix. The collection is particularly strong in Italian baroque and Pre-Raphaelite works, with good representation by Latin American and Puerto Rican artists from the 18th century to the present including Myrna Baez, Julio Rosado del Valle, and Antonio Martorell.
In the 1960s, as the art world moved away from socially committed art, Puerto Rican artists still struggled with nationalism and identity issues. Locally, this struggle resulted in a battle between abstraction—with artists such as Julio Rosado Del Valle, Olga Albizu, and Luis Hernández Cruz—and avant-garde expression that favored figurative and socially minded art considered "genuinely" Puerto Rican.
In the 1980s, abstract expressionists and other stylistic experimenters were granted a place at the table of Puerto Rican identity. These years opened art to the irreverent humor of Carmelo Sobrino, to the environmental activism of Carlos Marcial, and to aspects of the fantastic, as in the works of Marta Pérez, Jorge Zeno, and Rafi Trelles. Zeno's whimsical sculptures, often fusing human and animal elements, are on permanent display in front of the Hotel El Convento in Old San Juan.
By 1988, a group of artists, professors, critics, collectors, and other art lovers came together to establish the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Puerto Rico (Museum of Contemporary Art of Puerto Rico). The collection is composed mostly of works donated by the artists. Private collectors continued to expand their sphere of influence in the art world throughout the late 1980s and into the 1990s. Most notable among them are Diana and Moisés Berezdivin, whose collection became so extensive the museum acquired a space for part of the work and opened it to the public in 2005. Their Espacio 1414 is dedicated to cultivating the visual arts in Puerto Rico and is one of the most interesting places on the island to see art.
The future is exciting as Puerto Rican art both brings art aficionados from abroad and travels beyond the island. The launch of the first annual CIRCA Art Fair in 2006 signaled Puerto Rico's readiness to take its place on the international art stage, bringing both exhibitors and collectors from near and far to see just how much Puerto Rican art has changed. Increasingly, Puerto Rican artists are showing their work abroad, engaging audiences in a more nuanced dialogue about what, exactly, Puerto Rican art is and what it's becoming.
Weddings and Honeymoons in Puerto Rico
Many other Caribbean destinations make a big pitch as wedding destinations, and Puerto Rico often gets overlooked. But it has all the ingredients of a spectacular place to wed and/or honeymoon. Gorgeous beaches dissolving into warm turquoise waters and a sensual tropical climate induce romance, and many an enamored couple has tied the knot here on the spur of the moment.
Choosing the Perfect Place
You can be as stylish or as informal as you wish. Although Puerto Rico has fewer ritzy beach resorts than many others islands, there's no shortage of exquisite boutique hotels with just the right ambience to inspire "I do." In San Juan, Casa Herencia and the El Convento have just the right romantic style. In Rincón, the Horned Dorest Primavera exudes honeymoon chic, and the Hix House Hotel, on Vieques, will suit honeymooners seeking a reclusive escape. Also on Vieques, the new W Beach Resort & Spa promises all the hip sophistication perfectly suited to young newlyweds, including sexy rooms and a holistic spa for Him and Her treatments. Puerto Rico has no couples-only "all-inclusives," such as the well-known Caribbean Sandals and SuperClubs chains, but the "W" promises to deliver all the right stuff. Also consider Copamarina Beach Resort & Spa, which has a "romance package" that includes a bottle of champagne plus massage. Many larger hotels have their own wedding planners to take care of all arrangements—a distinct advantage over smaller hotels if you're seeking to wed on the island.
Getting Your Licenses
You must get an application from the Demographic Registry Office. There are no special residency requirements, but U.S. citizens must produce a driver's license, and non-U.S. citizens must produce a valid passport for identification purposes. Medical certificates, which can be done by your own doctor and approved by a Puerto Rican one, are required. If either the bride or groom was previously married, certified copies of a divorce decree or death certificate must be produced. The filing cost is $20. Blood tests are required and must be done within 10 days of the marriage ceremony. The results must be certified and signed by a doctor or hotel physician in Puerto Rico. The cost for the laboratory test in Puerto Rico is about $15 to $25. Both parties must appear at the City Court office to purchase a marriage license. Marriages may then be performed by a judge or any clergyman. The marriage fee is usually between $150 and $350. Most large hotels on the island have marriage coordinators who can explain the necessary paperwork and help you complete it on time for your marriage ceremony.
Information
Top Things to Do in Puerto Rico
Hang 10 in Rincón
The laid-back beach resort of Rincón, on the west coast, is Puerto Rico's capital of wind-and-wave action. Winds off the Mona Passage whip up whitecaps year-round, especially November though March. Serious surfers will want to bring their own boards, but outfitters are there aplenty. El Rincón Surf Shop can also supply cool beach duds. The crowd is predominantly young and party focused, with dozens of bars and restaurants for après-surf action. Nearby Playa Jobos, at the northwest tip of the island, gives Rincón a run for its money.
Try Your Hand for the Big One
When talk turns to the big one that got away, forget it! The waters off Puerto Rico teem with feisty game fish just waiting to get a bite of your hook. Take your pick of where to set out from: Fajardo and La Parguera are both great bases. Regardless of season, there's sure to be dolphin fish, tuna, wahoo, and sailfish to wrestle. In September you can cast for a champion trophy during the International Light Tackle Blue Marlin Tournament.
San Juan National Historic Site
The U.S. National Parks Service maintains this huge colonial military complex, comprising Castillo El Morro and Castillo San Cristóbal. A visit to Old San Juan is not complete without exploring these twin fortresses. Park rangers offer fascinating tours of the tunnels, cannon batteries, and barracks, which today feature museum pieces recalling a once-glorious past.
El Yunque National Forest
Pack your raingear and hike the crown jewel of Puerto Rico's national parks—carpeting the slopes of the rugged Luquillo Mountain Range. From the El Portal Visitor Center, the Sendero El Yunque climbs 1,365 feet through an eerie cloud forest. This 2.6-mile trail puts you atop the summit at 3,496 feet. When it's clear the 360-degree views are spectacular. Add a twist to your return hike by diverting along Forest Road 10 to the Mt. Britton observation tower, resembling a castle turret. A spiral staircase leads to a viewing platform.
Playa Flamenco
Puerto Rico's best beach? Ask the thousands of sanjuaneros who fly or ferry out to the isle of Culebra on weekends and holidays. Long and broad enough to absorb the masses, this visual stunner tempts disbelief with its bright white sands and waters of Maxfield Parrish blues and greens. Snorkeling is tops thanks to an offshore reef, and when the wind is up, surfers are thrilled by the action.
Parque de las Cavernas del Rio Camuy
Puerto Rico has some of the deepest and longest caves in the world, and it's a special thrill to rappel down a cliff-face to enter Cueva Camuy. Donned with life jacket and lamped helmet, you'll ever remember the 250-foot rope descent, Spider-Man-style into the gaping mouth of the Angeles cavern. Dripstone formations take on surreal forms in the cool, moist depths, where you slide down mud chutes and body raft in the care of experienced guides. Aventuras Tierra Adento offers trips.
Bioluminescent Bay, Vieques
A remarkable natural wonder, Vieques's world-famous Puerto Mosquito bay will make you giggle with childlike glee. Microscopic organisms that live in the lagoon light up around your kayak, enveloping you in a neon-like spectral glow. Choose a moonless pitch-black night for best effect. The experience is well worth the journey to Vieques, even if you do nothing else here. Several operators on the island offer trips.
Arecibo Observatory
If this space-age facility deep in the mountains of northwest Puerto Rico looks like something from a sci-fi movie, it is. Contact, with Jodie Foster was filmed here. The view over the 1,000-ft.-wide dish (the largest such telescope ever built) is a jaw-dropper. The visitor center doubles as a superb museum on astronomy, the atmosphere, and Earth.
The Ruta Panorámica
Puerto Rico's interior is a beautiful mountainous region with cooler climes and splendid climbs. The Ruta Panorámica, is network of roads that snakes through the entire region. Some are nicely maintained, others are little more than gravel. But the "Panoramic Route" lives up to its name, providing eye-catching vistas around every bend of the road. It's an exciting journey that reveals an enthralling vision of Puerto Rico undisclosed to those who don't venture beyond the city and shores.
Puerto Rico Travel Guide
Sunrise and sunset are both worth waiting for when you're in Puerto Rico. The pinks and yellows that hang in the early-morning sky are just as compelling as the sinewy reds and purples that blend into the twilight. It's easy to compare them, as Puerto Rico is so narrow that you can easily have breakfast in Fajardo, looking eastward over the boats headed to enchanted islands like Vieques and Culebra, then settle down for a lobster dinner in Rincon as the sun is sinking into the inky-blue water.
